Common Dishwasher Problems We Fix

Dishes come out dirty or gritty

The most frustrating issue for a homeowner is opening the door after a full cycle only to find food particles baked onto plates and glasses. This defeats the purpose of the appliance. It often indicates that water is not circulating with enough force or that the water being used is recirculating debris. In Belmont homes with older plumbing sediment can sometimes contribute to these flow restrictions.

Likely causes:

• Clogged or damaged spray arms
• Blocked fine particle filter
• Failed circulation pump impeller
• Diverter motor stuck in one position
• Low water level in the tub
• Detergent dispenser failure

How we diagnose it:

We inspect the spray arms for cracks or clogged jets that disrupt the spray pattern. We remove and examine the filtration system for trapped debris or broken mesh. We also test the water intake to ensure the unit is filling to the correct level because too little water prevents the pump from building adequate pressure.

What you can do right now:

Remove the bottom rack and check the filter at the base of the tub. If it is covered in food debris rinse it under hot water. Also check the spray arm holes for trapped seeds or glass shards.

Dishwasher is not draining

Standing water in the bottom of the tub is a common complaint. Aside from the unpleasant smell standing water can lead to leaks if the door is opened incorrectly. This issue is usually caused by a blockage in the drainage path or a failure of the mechanical component responsible for pushing water out.

Likely causes:

• Clogged drain filter or sump area
• Obstruction in the drain hose
• Failed drain pump motor
• Broken drain impeller
• Garbage disposal knockout plug not removed (on new installs)
• Air gap blockage at the sink

How we diagnose it:

We listen to the drain pump to see if it hums or grinds which indicates a jam or motor failure. We check the drain hose where it connects to the sink plumbing to ensure there are no kinks or clogs. We also verify that the check valve works correctly to prevent dirty water from flowing back into the machine.

What you can do right now:

Check your kitchen sink drain to ensure it is clear. If you have a garbage disposal run it for a few seconds to clear any food waste that might be blocking the dishwasher drain path.

Leaking onto the floor

Water leaks are a serious concern especially in multi-story homes or condos in Waverley where a leak can damage the ceiling below. Leaks can originate from the door area or from underneath the unit. Identifying the source quickly is vital to preventing property damage to your cabinetry and flooring.

Likely causes:

• Worn or torn door gasket seal
• Loose hose connection on the inlet or drain
• Leaking water inlet valve
• Cracked circulation pump housing
• Unit is not level causing water to splash over the front
• Using regular dish soap instead of dishwasher detergent

How we diagnose it:

We remove the kickplate and run a test cycle while observing the underside of the machine with a flashlight. We look for drips coming from the pump motor shaft or hose clamps. We also inspect the door seal for rips or areas where it has pulled away from the channel.

What you can do right now:

Stop the cycle and drain the unit if possible. Check the door seal for any obvious damage. verify that you are using the correct detergent as standard soap creates suds that force water out of the door vent.

Dishwasher will not start

You load the dishes and press the start button but nothing happens. The lights might be on but the cycle refuses to begin. This can be caused by a safety interlock issue or a control failure. Modern units will not run if they detect that the door is not securely latched.

Likely causes:

• Broken door latch or strike plate
• Failed door switch sensor
• Blown thermal fuse
• Control board malfunction
• Child lock feature is engaged
• No power at the circuit breaker

How we diagnose it:

We test the door switches for continuity to ensure they signal the control board when the door is closed. We inspect the main control board for signs of burning or shorted components. We also check the thermal fuse which is a safety device designed to cut power if the unit overheats.

What you can do right now:

Check your home circuit breaker panel to see if the breaker has tripped. Verify that the door is closing completely and not being blocked by a protruding rack or utensil.

Dishes are not drying

Opening the dishwasher to find dripping wet plates is disappointing. While plastics are naturally harder to dry ceramic and glass items should be dry at the end of the cycle. Drying issues are often related to the heating system or the rinse aid dispenser.

Likely causes:

• Burned out heating element
• Malfunctioning vent fan
• Empty rinse aid reservoir
• Failed high limit thermostat
• Control board relay failure

How we diagnose it:

We test the heating element for continuity to see if the electrical path is broken. We check the vent fan operation on models that use airflow for drying. We also examine the rinse aid dispenser to ensure it is releasing fluid correctly during the final rinse.

What you can do right now:

Check the rinse aid dispenser and refill it if it is empty. Rinse aid breaks the surface tension of water allowing it to sheet off dishes which significantly improves drying performance.

Loud or strange noises

Dishwashers should operate with a consistent hum or swishing sound. If you hear grinding, thumping, or high-pitched squealing it indicates a mechanical problem. Ignoring these sounds can lead to total component failure.

Likely causes:

• Debris like glass or bone stuck in the chopper blade
• Worn out wash pump bearings
• Drain pump obstruction
• Spray arm hitting a tall item
• Loose mounting brackets

How we diagnose it:

We listen to the machine during different stages of the cycle to pinpoint the source of the noise. If it happens during draining we check the drain pump. If it happens during the wash cycle we inspect the circulation pump and chopper assembly.

What you can do right now:

Open the door and spin the spray arms by hand to ensure they are not hitting any tall plates or cutlery. Check the bottom of the tub for any hard objects that might be rattling.

Cycle takes too long

If your dishwasher runs for four or five hours it is likely struggling to heat the water or sense that the dishes are clean. While energy-efficient cycles are longer by design extreme run times indicate a malfunction.

Likely causes:

• Water inlet temperature is too low
• Heating element is weak or failed
• Thermostat or thermistor failure
• Soil sensor is dirty or faulty
• Timer motor failure (on older mechanical units)

How we diagnose it:

We check the incoming water temperature and test the heating element. If the unit waits for the water to reach a certain temperature before advancing and the heater is broken the cycle will stall. We also clean and test the turbidity sensor.

What you can do right now:

Run the hot water at your kitchen sink before starting the dishwasher. This ensures hot water enters the unit immediately rather than cold water sitting in the pipes.

Soap dispenser does not open

Finding a dissolvable pod or a lump of powder still in the cup at the end of the cycle means your dishes were washed with water only. The dispenser mechanism must open at the precise moment in the cycle to be effective.

Likely causes:

• Broken spring or latch on the dispenser door
• Failed wax motor or solenoid
• Dishes in the lower rack blocking the door
• Sticky residue jamming the latch
• Control board not sending the signal to open

How we diagnose it:

We inspect the mechanical linkage of the dispenser door. We test the actuator that triggers the door to open. We also check the wiring harness between the dispenser and the main control board.

What you can do right now:

Ensure that tall plates or cutting boards in the lower rack are not positioned directly in front of the detergent cup. Wipe down the dispenser cup to remove any sticky residue.