Common Refrigerator Problems We Fix

Refrigerator is running but not cooling

This is the most alarming symptom. The lights are on and you can hear a fan running but the temperature is rising. In the humid summers of Massachusetts dirty condenser coils are a frequent cause but it can also be a failed start relay or compressor issue.

Likely causes:

• Dirty condenser coils restricting heat dissipation
• Evaporator fan motor failure
• Condenser fan motor failure
• Compressor start relay or capacitor failure
• Defrost system failure (coils packed with ice)
• Temperature control board malfunction

How we diagnose it:

We check the frost pattern on the evaporator coils. A full even frost indicates a healthy sealed system while a partial frost often means a leak. We test the fans and the compressor amp draw to see if the mechanical parts are working under load.

What you can do right now:

Check the coils underneath or behind the fridge and vacuum them if they are dusty. Ensure the fridge has a few inches of clearance from the wall for airflow.

Freezer is cold but fridge is warm

In most refrigerators the cooling originates in the freezer and air is blown into the fridge section. If the freezer is fine but the fresh food is warm it is usually an airflow problem between the two compartments.

Likely causes:

• Failed evaporator fan motor
• Frozen air damper (diffuser)
• Defrost problem blocking airflow with ice
• Return air vents blocked by food packages

How we diagnose it:

We inspect the damper door to see if it opens and closes electronically. We check the fan in the freezer to ensure it is pushing air up to the fridge. We also check the return air ducts for blockages.

What you can do right now:

Look at the back wall of the freezer. If there is heavy frost or snow buildup it indicates a defrost failure. Also ensure you are not blocking the vents with boxes of food.

Water leaking onto the floor

Water pooling under the fridge can damage wood floors quickly. This leak is rarely from the water supply line itself but rather from the defrost drain system or the water filter housing.

Likely causes:

• Clogged defrost drain line
• Cracked drain pan
• Leaking water filter connection
• Water inlet valve leaking
• Ice maker mold overfilling

How we diagnose it:

We pull the unit out and check the mechanical room in the back. If the drain pan is dry but the floor is wet the drain tube is likely clogged causing water to overflow inside the fridge. We also check the water line connections for drips.

What you can do right now:

If the water is coming from the front check if the drain hole inside the fridge (on some models) is blocked. If it is coming from the back turn off the water supply valve to the fridge immediately.

Ice maker not making ice

Ice makers are the most mechanically complex part of the fridge and have the highest failure rate. Issues can range from a jammed ejector arm to a frozen fill tube.

Likely causes:

• Frozen water fill tube
• Defective water inlet valve
• Failed ice maker module motor
• Freezer temperature too high (must be below 10°F)
• Bail arm stuck in the “off” position

How we diagnose it:

We verify the freezer temperature first. If it is too warm the ice maker will never cycle. We force a manual cycle to see if the motor turns and if the water valve opens. We also check for ice jams in the chute.

What you can do right now:

Make sure the wire shut-off arm is in the down position. Check if the ice maker is jammed with a clump of ice and gently remove it if possible.

Excessive frost buildup in freezer

If your freezer looks like a winter landscape with snow on the food packages it usually means warm moist air is entering the compartment. This is distinct from the hard ice of a defrost failure.

Likely causes:

• Torn or warped door gasket
• Door left slightly ajar
• Dispenser flap not sealing
• Freezer drawer rails bent or misaligned

How we diagnose it:

We inspect the door seal for rips or gaps. On bottom freezer drawers we check the alignment of the rails to ensure the drawer pulls tight against the cabinet when closed. We also check the ice chute flap for air leaks.

What you can do right now:

Clean the door gasket with warm water to remove sticky residue that might prevent a good seal. Check that no food items are stopping the door from closing fully.

Loud humming or clicking noises

Refrigerators make low humming sounds normally but loud buzzing, grinding, or clicking indicates a failing component. The location of the sound helps us identify the culprit.

Likely causes:

• Evaporator fan blade hitting ice
• Condenser fan motor bearing failure
• Compressor internal mechanical failure
• Start relay clicking on and off
• Ice maker trying to cycle while jammed

How we diagnose it:

We open the back panel to listen to the compressor and condenser fan. If the noise is inside the freezer it is usually the evaporator fan rubbing against frost buildup. A loud click followed by silence usually points to the start relay.

What you can do right now:

Pull the fridge away from the wall to see if the vibration stops. Sometimes the copper tubing in the back just needs to be adjusted so it doesn’t rattle against the metal panel.

Water dispenser not working

You push the lever and hear a hum but no water comes out. This is inconvenient and often tied to the filter or the water pressure in your home.

Likely causes:

• Frozen water reservoir tank
• Clogged water filter
• Defective water inlet valve
• Broken dispenser microswitch
• Air in the water line

How we diagnose it:

We check the water pressure at the supply line. We test the continuity of the dispenser switch. We also check if the water tube inside the door is frozen which is common on certain French door models.

What you can do right now:

Replace the water filter if it has been more than 6 months. A clogged filter can restrict flow completely. Also verify the “Control Lock” feature is not engaged on the panel.

Sheet of ice on the freezer floor

In bottom freezer models you might find a solid sheet of ice under the bottom basket. This is almost always a clogged defrost drain. When the freezer defrosts the water has nowhere to go and refreezes on the floor.

Likely causes:

• Clogged defrost drain tube
• Debris in the “duckbill” check valve
• Freezer drain heater failure

How we diagnose it:

We remove the rear wall of the freezer to access the drain trough. We use steam or hot water to clear the ice blockage and then clear the tube of any debris. We often install a secondary heat probe to prevent refreezing.

What you can do right now:

There is little you can do without disassembly. Avoid chipping the ice with a sharp object as you can easily puncture the plastic liner or the refrigerant coils.