Common Stove and Oven Problems We Fix

Oven is not heating or not reaching temperature

There is nothing worse than putting a roast in the oven only to find it raw an hour later. If your oven lights turn on but the heat does not follow it indicates a break in the heating system. In electric ovens this is often a sudden failure while gas ovens may show signs of slow heating before quitting entirely.

Likely causes:

• Broken baking or broiling element (electric)
• Weak or failed igniter (gas)
• Blown thermal fuse
• Failed temperature sensor
• Control board relay failure
• Incoming power issue (tripped breaker leg)

How we diagnose it:

For electric units we test the heating elements for continuity to see if the internal wire is broken. For gas units we observe the igniter glow pattern; if it does not get hot enough it will not open the gas safety valve. We also test the temperature sensor resistance to ensure it is reading accurately.

What you can do right now:

Check your circuit breaker panel. Electric ovens run on two 120 volt legs; if only one trips the lights might work but the heater will not. Reset the breaker fully to be sure.

Gas burner will not light

You turn the knob and hear the clicking sound but the flame never appears. This is a common issue with gas cooktops. It can be caused by a lack of gas flow, a spark issue, or a dirty burner assembly. In Belmont kitchens with active cooking grease buildup is a frequent culprit.

Likely causes:

• Clogged burner ports blocking gas flow
• Cracked or wet ceramic spark electrode
• Failed spark module
• Defective burner switch
• Misaligned burner cap

How we diagnose it:

We check for a strong blue spark at the electrode. If there is a spark but no flame we check the gas flow through the orifice. If there is no sound and no spark we test the switch and the spark module to see where the electrical signal is being lost.

What you can do right now:

Remove the burner cap and clean the metal burner head with a toothbrush and warm soapy water. Ensure the tiny holes are clear. Make sure the burner cap is sitting perfectly flat.

Oven burns food or bakes unevenly

If your cookies are burnt on one side and raw on the other your oven has lost its calibration or airflow balance. This transforms baking from a science into a guessing game. This can happen over time as components age or if the convection fan fails.

Likely causes:

• Temperature sensor has drifted out of spec
• Convection fan motor failure
• Oven rack is positioned incorrectly
• Blocked airflow vents
• Bottom heating element is not working (using only broil element)
• Door gasket is leaking heat

How we diagnose it:

We use a digital thermometer to map the temperature inside the oven cavity and compare it to the set point. We test the convection fan to ensure it is circulating air. We also inspect the door seal for gaps that let cold air in creating hot and cold spots.

What you can do right now:

Check the door seal for any rips. Ensure you are not covering the oven racks with aluminum foil which blocks airflow. Try recalibrating the temperature offset in the user settings if your model allows it.

Glass cooktop burner not working

On a smooth top electric range a burner that stays cold or goes to high heat regardless of the setting is a major problem. These units use “infinite switches” or digital relays to cycle the power on and off to maintain heat.

Likely causes:

• Burned out ribbon element under the glass
• Failed infinite switch
• Loose wire connection at the terminal block
• Surface element limiter switch failure

How we diagnose it:

We access the components under the glass top and test the element for continuity. If the element is good we test the switch contacts to see if they are regulating the power correctly. We also inspect the wiring for any signs of overheating.

What you can do right now:

If one burner is acting up avoid using it to prevent further electrical damage. Do not place heavy cast iron pans on the glass until it is inspected as this can exacerbate underlying cracks.

Self cleaning cycle caused a failure

We often get calls right after a homeowner runs the self clean cycle. The extreme heat generated during this cycle (often over 800 degrees) can stress aging components and cause them to fail. The oven might lock the door and refuse to open or simply go dead.

Likely causes:

• Tripped high limit thermal fuse
• Control board overheated
• Door lock motor seized
• Touch panel ribbon cable melted

How we diagnose it:

We check the thermal safety limits first as they are designed to trip to prevent a fire. If the door is stuck locked we manually release the latch mechanism. We then test the control board to see if it survived the high heat event.

What you can do right now:

If the door is locked do not force it open as you will break the latch. Wait for the oven to cool down completely (at least 2 hours). If it stays locked try flipping the breaker off for 5 minutes and then back on.

Smell of gas or unusual odors

A gas smell near your stove is a serious safety concern. It could be a leak at the connection or a valve not closing properly. An electrical burning smell usually indicates a wiring issue or a component melting.

Likely causes:

• Leaking gas pressure regulator
• Loose flex line connection
• Igniter glowing but not lighting the gas immediately
• Wire insulation melting near the back of the oven

How we diagnose it:

For gas issues we use an electronic leak detector and bubble solution to find the source. We check the time it takes for the burner to light; a slow ignition releases unburned gas. For electrical smells we inspect the terminal block and main wiring harness.

What you can do right now:

If you smell gas continuously turn off the gas supply valve behind the unit and open a window. If the smell is strong evacuate the home and call the gas company. Do not use the appliance until it is professionally inspected.

Control panel or display is blank

A dead control panel means you cannot operate the oven at all. This can be caused by a power surge or just component fatigue. In Belmont areas with older overhead power lines occasional surges can affect sensitive appliance electronics.

Likely causes:

• Main control board failure
• Touchpad or membrane switch failure
• Transformer failure
• Thermal cutout tripped

How we diagnose it:

We verify that voltage is reaching the board. If power is present but the display is dead the board is likely failed. If the display works but buttons do not respond we test the ribbon connector for the touchpad.

What you can do right now:

Try the “hard reset” method: turn off the breaker for the oven for 60 seconds and then turn it back on. This can sometimes reboot a confused control board.

Oven door glass shattered

It is shocking when the oven door glass shatters sometimes seemingly spontaneously. This can happen due to a microscopic crack that expands over time with heat cycles or from an accidental impact with a pot handle.

Likely causes:

• Physical impact or scratch on the glass
• Thermal shock (cold liquid hitting hot glass)
• Installation stress on the door frame

How we diagnose it:

We inspect the door hinges and frame to ensure they are not bent which would put stress on the new glass. We vacuum out the debris and replace the glass panel ensuring the heat shield is correctly positioned.

What you can do right now:

Carefully clean up the glass shards. Do not use the oven until the glass is replaced as the door will not hold heat and the exterior will become dangerously hot.